HOW TO: ATV Wheel Bearing Replacement

Unless you keep your ATV, UTV, or side-by-side stashed away in a garage 24/7 and never ever ride, wheel hub bearing service is unavoidable. This is especially true if you already have or have recently come into ownership of an older model that requires a bit of TLC before hitting the trail.

Signs and symptoms of a bad wheel bearing are similar to those in a car or truck; groaning or grinding while the vehicle is in motion, knocking or clunking sounds, wheel wobble and vibration, pulling to left or right under braking. Keep in mind that any of these can also be side-effects of damaged or worn suspension, steering, or braking components. More often than not, the wheel hub bearings are the culprit. Replacing wheel hub bearings is a fact of life for off-road riders, but don’t let it scare you. It’s totally possible for you to do this job yourself. We’ll show you how in this quick write-up.

Polaris RZR Rear Wheel Hub and Bearing

The procedure is mostly universal for ATVs and UTVs regardless of make and model, but if you’re unsure of torque specs and other exact parameters, it would be a good idea to get yourself a good service repair manual.

1: LIFT VEHICLE AND SECURE ONTO A STAND

This part should be obvious. Not only is it beneficial for your safety, it will help you better access the wheel hub assembly.

2: REMOVE WHEEL

Again, for your safety, place the wheel underneath the ATV lift/stand in case the vehicle should accidentally fall. Better for it to land on the wheel and tire than onto your leg or another vulnerable body part.

3: REMOVE UPPER AND LOWER SHOCK BOLTS

4: MANUALLY REPOSITION THE SHOCK OUT OF YOUR WAY

5: REMOVE AXLE NUT

In some models, this is either a large castle nut with a cotter pin sticking out of it or a stake nut. You can reuse these, but it won’t hurt to replace them with new ones.

6: REMOVE BRAKE CALIPER

Brake calipers will have either 12-14mm bolts or an Allen bolt. Remove the two bolts that secure the brake caliper and the caliper should easily slip off of the brake rotor.

7: REMOVE THE STEERING TIE ROD FROM THE KNUCKLE

You might find another castle nut and cotter pin on this as well.

8: REMOVE THE WHEEL BEARING KNUCKLE FROM THE SUSPENSION ARMS

The ball joints should slip out of the knuckle, which will expose the outer seals bearings.

9: REMOVE OUTER SEALS AND BEARINGS

If these are still intact, first remove the knuckle bearing seals and then remove the bearing seals themselves. This may require a bit of patience and assistance from a center punch. Move the punch from side to side and tap a little at a time. This will keep the bearing square in the hole and allow it to come out easier.

10: CLEAN THE KNUCKLE AND INSERT YOUR NEW BEARINGS

Find a good socket that fits the outer race size of the bearing that will be used for reinstalling. Don’t hit the inner race of the bearing or risk potentially damaging the new part. The seals will insert the same way and seat on the outer edge of the knuckle. Don’t forget to install the spacer that goes between the bearings.

HQ Powersports sells brand new, OEM-spec replacement wheel bearing kits and All Balls Racingwheel bearing seal kits for ATVs and UTVs. We carry aftermarket ATV parts for popular domestic and foreign makes and models, as well as quality replacement parts for motorcycles, scooters, snowmobiles, and personal watercraft.